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Textiles Gestalten


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Cooperation with the Draiflessen Collection

University meets museum

For the second time, students from the Department of Textile Studies at Osnabrück University have collaborated with the Draiflessen Collection in an exhibition context to explore the diversity of fashion and its origins in needlework. Based on the collection of historical sewing and needlework utensils "Stichting Ariadne's Naaikussen", students revived an almost forgotten lace-making technique: Occhi. Occhi (also known as shuttle or frivolity work) is a needlework technique in which lace is formed using a thread wound on a shuttle. But how was occhi originally made? What historical sources can we draw on if we want to relearn Occhi? And how can Occhi lace be interpreted in a contemporary way? The students asked themselves these and other questions while researching this topic and, not least, while making their handicrafts. The Draiflessen Collection is showing the delicate results of these theoretical and practical explorations in the context of the presentation of "Ariadne's Naaikussen". The participants of the seminar, Daria Ivanov, Anja Leshoff, Christine Löbbers, Jessica Kirschmann, Celine Krumland, Kathrin Meese, Tamara Olmer and Elisa Prigge, will present their work as part of a curator's tour on January 4, 2024. A subsequent Occhi workshop will be expertly accompanied by Anja Leshoff and Christine Löbbers. 

Draiflessen Collection - Occhi

Occhi-Broschüre

 

Further informations: Christine Loebbers, 0541 969-4006, christine.loebbers@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Anja Leshoff.

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Cooperation with the University Shop

Textile Studies designs UOS keychains

In the future, the University Shop will offer UOS keychains from Textile Studies. The cooperation project is based on a seminar on the topic of souvenirs and gifts. In the seminar, students thought about handy, sustainable and gender-neutral presents. Prototypes such as USB cases, friendship bracelets and university bags were created. The aim was to use both archaic and digital textile technologies. The key ring designed by student Marieke Oevermann is made using a knotting technique. Knotting techniques are among the oldest textile techniques known to mankind. Even in the Stone Age, people used knots to make nets, baskets and clothing. To this day, knots form an important part of our material culture. The yarn used is made of pure cotton in the University color red, yellow or natural. The metal holder is made from recycled material. The wooden bead attached to the key ring was lasered out with the logo of the University of Osnabrück using the laser cutter in the Textile Design Makerspace St!chLab. The handmade keychains are now available during the University Shop's opening hours. A big thank you goes to Anke Beccard for supporting the cooperation project, to the students of the seminar for the valuable ideas on the topic and to Mareike Oevermann for the idea, implementation and production of the first series for the University Shop.

Brochure from the Seminar

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg.

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PhD-project on the historical Beiderwand weaving mill in Meldorf

Report in the Dithmarscher Landeszeitung

The Beiderwand weaving mill in Meldorf is a unique textile gem and the PhD-project of our research assistant Lucia Schwalenberg. Elaborate pictorial patterns are woven on historic jacquard looms in the Dithmarscher Museumswerkstätten. One of the looms, which is more than a century old, has been standing still for years due to technical problems. Now, with the help of a jacquard expert from the Czech Republic, a complex repair was carried out: the harness was replaced with more than a thousand threads. The journalist Dana Müller from the Dithmarscher Landeszeitung reported on it. A treasure is beeing repaired

Further informations: Lucia Schwalenberg, 05103 - 706423, lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Dana Müller.

Caption: Sarah Dörrenbächer and Wolfgang Sternberg from the Dithmarscher Museumswerkstätten show one of the historical wall patterns (Bernward motif) and the punch cards that are used for the jacquard looms.

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What do you really need?

merry (critical) x-mas

During the Christmas season, consumption is an overwhelming topic. In times of climate change and global crises, this contemplative time encourages to think about what you really need. In this year's Christmas window, Textile Studies is showing an Advent wreath made of discarded, unused, green clothing. The installation in the St!chpunkt window gallery raises questions such as “What do you really need?” and “What should you perhaps not buy in the interests of sustainability?”. Education for sustainable development plays a fundamental role in the Textile Studies design teacher training course. It's about interactions between consumption and production, economics, design and ecology: How can textiles be sustainably produced, transported, traded, consumed, worn and fed into a cycle? These questions play a crucial role in the context of consumer behavior during the Christmas season.

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Anja Leshoff.

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Excursion JAB Anstoetz

Insights into a textile publisher

During an excursion to JAB Anstoetz in Bielefeld, students of Textile Studies gained valuable insights into how the largest fabric publisher in the world works. Founded in 1946, the German family business offers a high-quality range of interior furnishing fabrics and furniture in global showrooms from Paris, Milan, Tokyo to New York. The majority of the approximately 1,400 employees work at the headquarters in Bielefeld. The company complex includes the Bielefelder Werkstätten in the form of a manufacture for the handcrafted production of upholstered furniture. Here, upholsterers, seamstresses, interior decorators and carpenters process orders for furniture stores worldwide using elaborate handwork. The students had the opportunity to talk to employees in the production departments from the upholstery to cutting to the warehouse. What was impressive were, among other things: the variety of craft techniques, the attention to detail, the high quality standards, the in-house training and the inclusion through the integration of supervised employees from Bethel. A highlight was the visit to the newly opened company meeting point frei[raum] as well as the conclusion to the factory outlet, where the students were able to choose textile materials for their current projects. The excursion arose from the Sitzwerk - Sustainable Furniture Design seminar. This seminar, led by master interior designer Klaus Schmidt and with the support of master carpenter Jürgen Menkhaus, focused on the development of functional seating furniture while taking into account the careful use of resources. An important aspect was the cooperation between the university, crafts and industry. The examination of craft and industrial work contexts expands the textile students' horizon of experience and their connection to the world of life. As a cooperation partner, JAB Anstoetz sponsored all textile materials for the seminar. A brochure has been published for the seminar, see below. The students reflect on their impressions of the excursion in excursion reports. A big thank you goes to the JAB interior designer Diane Beckmann and the workshop manager of the JAB upholstery Matthias Brökelmann for the complex and valuable excursion day.

Brochure for the Sitzwerk-Seminar

Further informations: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Lucia Schwalenberg.

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Cooperation workshop with the Fachverband ... textil... e. V.

From OLD to NEW

On November 17th, the debate “turning OLD into NEW” was the focus of a workshop at Textile Studies. In cooperation with the association ... textile... e. V. Science - Research - Education, students learned through craft processes how an old T-shirt is turned into yarn. Under the guidance of former teacher Ruth Fiedler, “new” everyday items were then crocheted from the yarn. The didactic-methodological workshop gave the teacher training students an insight into their future work as teachers. Textiles are becoming a medium and provide practical and resource-saving suggestions for the later on own teaching.

Futher informations: Swantje Möhlmann, swmoehlm@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Swantje Möhlmann

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Stuffing and repairing

Pop Up Workshop

On Friday and Saturday, November 17 and 18, 2023, a pop-up workshop will take place at the Stadtgalerie Cafe & Contor at Markt 13 in Osnabrück from 3 pm to 6 pm. Together with students of Textile Studies and under the guidance of lecturer Mareike Alexander, we stuff together in dialog and with the technique of classic stuffing. We will also experiment with new ways of repairing clothing, such as so-called visible mending or Japanese sashiko. Registration is not required. The aim is a dynamic workshop with mutual learning and sharing in a narrative exchange about the textile technique of hand darning. It is possible to bring your own clothes and repair them under supervision. Holes in jeans can be mended with the sashiko technique, holes in sweaters with darning or a visible mending technique. In addition to working on your own garments, you will also have the opportunity to practise the technique on sample pieces, create a sampler or work on a joint sampler. We look forward to welcoming every participant.

Weitere Informationen: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Text: Mareike Alexander

Photos: Mareike Alexander, Lucia Schwalenberg.

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Excursion to Vienna

From sewing boxes & Sachertorte ...

... six of our students can now report in detail. From October 19th to 23rd, we went on a multifaceted excursion to Vienna with our department, which was characterized by impressive insights and cultural highlights. The first item on the program on Friday started with a captivating and multi-layered tour of the MAK Vienna, with the focus on the exhibition CONFESSIONS OF A T-SHIRT. This special exhibition deals with the negative effects of the fashion industry on people and nature. The problems are highlighted and solution-oriented projects are presented that will rethink fashion design of the future. On Saturday morning we went to the MAK GEYMÜLLERSCHLÖSSEL, where we visited the (CON)TEMPORARY FASHION SHOWCASE curated by Flora Miranda. In this unique ambience of Biedermeier furniture, haute couture appeared in a special contrast. The students presented impressive short presentations on the designer's self-selected objects, which primarily deal with A.I., big data and feminism.The highlight of the trip occurred on Sunday with a visit to the re:pair festival in the Vienna Folklore Museum. Walter Bruno Brix gave an inspiring lecture under the motto MOTTAINAI - WASTE NOTHING! Brix presented various textiles from the East Asian region, where every little scrap of fabric was repaired or recycled.The participants then delved into a lecture about the historical embedding and development of the sewing box, although the speaker was unexpected. Here our student Anja Leshoff proved to be a savior in an emergency and took on the program item at the festival with impressive bravura.At the end of the festival we took part in an exciting workshop led by Walter Bruno Brix, which was informative and inspiring. As part of this event, participants had the opportunity to repair textiles they had brought with them using the Sashiko technique.In between, the students took the opportunity to pursue their personal goals. The Belvedere, the Sigmund Freud Museum, the flea market at the Naschmarkt, the Prater, second-hand shops in Burggasse and the city's diverse coffee houses offered space for individual discoveries and experiences.

Further informations: Lesley-Ann Baldwin, lesley-ann.baldwin@uni-osnabrueck.de, Christine Löbbers, christine.loebbers@uni-osnabrueck.de

Text: Lesley-Ann Baldwin.

Photos: MAK Wien, re:pair festival, Anja Leshoff.

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Georgia cooperation travel

Textile culture at the crossroads between West and East

Textile culture, the cultural heritage blue print and the crossroads between East and West were the main topics for a cooperation trip to Georgia by Prof.in Bärbel Schmidt and her research assistant Lucia Schwalenberg. Countries like Georgia at the interface between Europe and Asia are characterized by a multi-layered approach in relation to cultural history, contemporary design and the challenges of the Post Soviet Age. Georgia strives to revive manual and industrial skills and techniques. Universities and cultural institutions research and activate textile techniques such as blue printing, felting, weaving and silk processing. These techniques are taught at the State Art Academy in Tbilisi and supported by a growing number of textile artists and institutions such as the UNESCO. The cooperation travel was funded by the German Academic Exchange Service/DAAD to prepare for mobility projects with partner countries. In order to continue the project, concrete cooperation options will be explored with the State Academy of Arts, its experimental research laboratory for Blauprint/Lurja Supra, the State Silk Museum and regional textile artists and other possible institutions. --> Read more in the illustrated travel report :-)

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0049 (0)541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: State Academy of the Arts, Lucia Schwalenberg.

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Warmly Welcome!

Dear new students,

we would like to welcome you to our department. We are pleased that you have chosen to study teaching and Textile Studies at the University of Osnabrück. We will do everything we can to ensure that you can complete your studies successfully and with great pleasure with us.

We have compiled a lot of important information on our homepage, which will help you during your studies and inform you about interesting events in the department. Please do not hesitate to contact us teachers, the student assistants or the student council if you need support.

Warm greetings from the entire team of the department

Further informations: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Anja Leshoff

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University information day/Hochschulinformationstag (HIT)

Information events of the Department of Textile Studies

The Department of Textile Studies is participating in a series of events at this year's University Information Day on November 23, 2023.

Information about the Textile Design events at HIT: www.zsb-os.de/hit-2023/angebote-der-universitaet-osnabrueck/theologie-kunst-musik-textiles-gestalten

Informationen about the HIT: www.zsb-os.de/hit-2023

Further informations: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Elena Hardenberg

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St!chlab begins semester operation

Opening hours and contact

The St!chlab is a textile makerspace in direct neighborhood to the student clothing rental Fairo Moda in building 52/E02, Neuer Graben 7 (entrance via Seminarstraße), Osnabrück. It is equipped with analog and digital machines and devices for making, repairing and upcycling clothing and textiles. These include a laser cutter, embroidery and sewing machines, and a plotter. With the St!chlab, the Department of Textile Studies initiates independent learning processes within the framework of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD). Donations of clothing that do not go to Fairo Moda can be reworked into new garments or textiles. Own clothes can be repaired or manufactured. The visitors are supervised by student assistants. The opening is open to all members of the university (staff and students) by arrangement and enables an exchange across the boundaries of different disciplines.

Opening hours: every 1st Wednesday of the month from 2 - 5 p.m.

Registration for students of Textile Studies: required via the St!chlab study group of Textile Design appointments in each case no later than two days before (by Monday at 12 noon). Indication of a short note about the planned project under the keyword "reason". For questions you are welcome to use the forum in the study group.

Requests from other disciplines: Users from other disciplines please send an email to  hiwitextil@uos.de.

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Stina Koch.

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Open Workshop of Textile Studies

Opening hours and contact

The Open Workshop is an offer to all students of Textile Studies for the realization of practical work in the workshops of the department with supervision and support by student employees.

Opening hours: Wednesday 14 -17 h

Requirements for the use of the open workshop:
- Subject Textile Design
- Safety instruction
- Registration via appointment in the study group "Open Workshop" until Tuesday at 12 o'clock at the latest with a short note about the project.

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg.

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Support of the Design Museum Den Bosch/NL and request of the New York Times

Interviews on striped concentration camp prisoner clothing

Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt's dissertation on the history and symbolism of striped concentration camp prisoner clothing, published in 2000, is the standard work on the subject. Filmmakers and museums regularly request her expertise for exhibition concepts, documentation or publications. Bärbel Schmidt is currently assisting the Design Museum Den Bosch in the Netherlands with the revision of the exhibition Design of the Third Reich. The exhibits of the exhibition shown there in 2019 are currently being redesigned as an online format. In it, the focus is on the problematic nature of the design process in the context of Nazi propaganda. The exhibits include striped concentration camp prisoner clothing as textile objects and a license plate for protective custody prisoners. The focus is on how the angle symbols were created, how the striped concentration camp clothing developed and became widespread, how the signs and clothing affected the prisoners, and what meaning the clothing and signs acquired after the war.The New York Times interview with Polish author Ada Petriczko addresses the issue of fashion in the context of wars and genocide.

Further informations: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Bärbel Schmidt.

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St!chLab opens

New Makerspace at Textile Studies

On Wednesday, July 5, 2023, the Department of Textile Studies opened the St!chLab with a large number of guests. These included the Vice President for Studies and Teaching of the University of Osnabrück, Prof. Dr. Jochen Oltmer, the UOS Communication and Marketing team, the UOS DigiLab team, Marco Bazalik for the Central Student Advisory Service, the Inistitute Director of Geography, Prof. Dr. Andreas Pott, students, lecturers and technical staff from different departments. A big thank you goes to Anke Beccard with the student assistants Marieke Oevermann, Occa Muscheites and Frederique Harder for the project preparation, the students for the fashion show at the opening, Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt for the project management and the team of Textile Studies for the support.

The St!chLab is a textile makerspace in direct neighborhood to the student clothing rental Fairo Moda in building 52/E02, Neuer Graben 7 (entrance via Seminarstraße), Osnabrück. It is equipped with analog and digital machines and devices for making, repairing and upcycling clothing and textiles. These include a laser cutter, embroidery and sewing machines, and a plotter. With the St!chLab, the Department of Textile Studies initiates independent learning processes within the framework of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD). Donations of clothing that do not go to Fairo Moda can be made into new dresses.  Own clothes can be repaired or made. The visitors are supervised by student assistants. The opening takes place after arrangement for all members of the university (employees and students) and makes the exchange possible over the borders of different disciplines. Funds are to be raised for full-time support. As an accompanying program, seminars on Makerculture with practical work in the St!chLab as well as changing monthly topics are planned. Advantages for the teachers are the anchoring of sustainability and conscious clothing consumption in the teaching. The experiences and competencies gained can be integrated by prospective teachers in the further course of their studies and in their future profession and everyday school life. The open exchange and support for mutual learning in the Makerspace enriches university education. The St!chLab was promoted by the University of Osnabrück as an example of good practice. The jury considered the new teaching and learning space worthy of funding because of its potential to make teaching and learning more flexible, make valuable use of attendance time, promote independent learning, develop competencies for a digitized world and use digital tools confidently.

Further informations: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Wolfgang Sparenberg, Lucia Schwalenberg.

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better fashion walk

Discover sustainable fashion in Osnabrück

Students of Textile Studies cordially invite you to become part of a more conscious fashion movement. The way is the goal on the better fashion walk. On this walk, the connection between fashion and environmental awareness will be made tangible. Along the way, stops will be made at sought-after, green as well as fair fashion locations in Osnabrück to discover the latest sustainable fashion trends. Meanwhile, the owners and the students will be available to answer questions. There will also be the opportunity to learn more about sustainable materials, fair production conditions and innovative (recycling) concepts. The numerous tips and tricks of the tour hopefully contain many inspirations to develop one's own lifestyle more consciously.

On July 15, 2023 at 12 p.m., there will be the (so far unique) opportunity to participate in the better fashion walk and get to know some sustainable stores in Osnabrück. Registration for the walk will be done via email. The meeting point will be announced to the participants with the registration confirmation.

Those who take part in the walk can look forward to a diverse selection of stores selected by the students of Textile Studies at the University of Osnabrück, who will make it clear that fashion and sustainability are in perfect harmony.

Registration at: better-fash@uni-osnabrueck.de

More info on Instagram: @better.fashion.os

More information: Lesley-Ann Baldwin, 0541 969-4399, lesley-ann.baldwin@uni-osnabrueck.de

Graphic: bib Marie Hense.

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Nomination for Mühlenhoff Prize

Lesley-Ann Baldwin nominated by students for award

25 academics have been nominated by students of the University of Osnabrück for the Hans Mühlenhoff Award 2023 for good academic teaching. Among the nominees is Lesley-Ann Baldwin from Textile Studies. Lesley-Ann Baldwin stands out for her high commitment in the field of Education for Sustainable Development (ESD). For example, in 2021, Lesley-Ann Baldwin created the first and only high-school clothing rental program under the name Fairo Moda. In connection with a course, she created a vestimentary sustainability guide for the city of Osnabrück in 2022. Lesley-Ann Baldwin thus joins a committed group of scientists at the University of Osnabrück. The prize was awarded to Prof. Dr. Chadi Touma and Dr. rer. nat. Dominique Remy from the Department of Biology/Chemistry and Dr. Imke von Maur from the Department of Human Sciences. The honor was bestowed by the Vice President for Studies and Teaching, Prof. Dr. Jochen Oltmer, who emphasized the weight of the nomination by the students themselves: "Creative, innovative and exciting teaching is an integral part of our university, alongside research. And who better to judge this than our students? In this sense, a nomination alone means a special honor, on which I congratulate everyone with great pleasure."

Further informations: Prof.in Dr.in phil. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg.

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High-ranking visitor from Ghana

Textile artist Ibrahim Mahama as a guest at Textile Studies

On May 31, 2023, Ibrahim Mahama, a conceptual, object, action and performance artist from Ghana, visited the Department of Textile Studies together with Juliane Schickedanz and Anna Jehle, directors of the Kunsthalle Osnabrück, for the purpose of an informal exchange.

The artist's trademark is monumental sculptures created from used jute sacks. Mahama exchanges the sacks, formerly used as transport containers for cocoa, for new sacks at Ghanaian markets. Together with his collaborators, he has already used jute sacks and Ghanaian ghonja cotton to cover numerous buildings around the world, including the National Theater in Accra, various residential buildings and the Kwame Nkrumah University and Technology in Kumasi, Ghana, as well as the Kassel Gate Guard on the occasion of documenta 14.

On the occasion of the 375th anniversary of peace and the 30th anniversary of the Kunsthalle Osnabrück, Ibrahim Mahama will cover the Galeria Kaufhof building, which has been empty since 2020, with an installation made of the above materials. In a lecture at the Osnabrück City Hall, he provided information about his work, working methods and the project in Osnabrück. Mahama's concern is to trace historical trade routes between Europe and the African continent and thus to point out the effects of world trade on his home country Ghana.

A visit to the Department of Textile Studies was an obvious choice because of the textile materials the artist works with. During the visit, Mahama informed himself about the study opportunities as well as the technological equipment of the department. The artist showed particular interest in the analog and digital weaving equipment as well as the newly acquired laser cutter.

Further information: Prof.in Dr.in Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Marieke Oevermann.

From left to the right:  Juliane Schickedanz, Ibrahim Mahama, Bärbel Schmidt, Anna Jehle.

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visible mending

Textile workshop with Anja Leshoff at Zentrum für kulturelle Bildung der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin

Repairing clothes instead of throwing them away was a given in the past. At school, young girls learned the basic techniques of repairing textiles. Nowadays, the sustainable use of clothing has come back into focus. In makerspaces and mending workshops, women and men learn how to repair clothing and textiles. In the course of the annual meeting of the network mode textil, the Master's student Anja Leshoff gave a workshop on the historical technique of darning and on the topic of visible mending in the Center for Cultural Education of the National Museums in Berlin. After an introduction to the cultural and historical background of flashlight technology from the 18th century to the present day, the focus was on the future relevance and importance of darning. The theoretical part was followed by a practical examination of the basic technology, which e.g. was explained in detail by means of picture instructions. The participants could choose from different materials and try out a variety of techniques. Garments that had already been darned in different variations were ready to be seen and explicitly showed the special feature of visible mending - visible repairing - which developed out of the invisible mending of the past.

Additional informations: Anja Leshoff, anschomb@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Anja Leshoff

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More than you can see

Impulse lecture by Ursula Nöh

Suggestions from Art - Textile - Fashion, is the title of a lecture by the art and textile educator Ursula Nöh on Wednesday, 03.05.2023, at 15.00, at Fachgebiet Textiles Gestalten, Seminarstraße 33-34, Osnabrück. The clothing of past and present times becomes visible in paintings, photographs, media. Selected works by Jan Vermeer van Delft, August Macke, Ida Gerhardi, Anni Leibovitz, Julia Hetta, among others, provide an initial impulse for contemplation. The design of the clothing, the combinations of materials and colors are significant for the respective time period. Interdependencies in the representation document the importance of clothing and refer to technology and manufacturing of textiles and clothing. A close examination of the totality and the details provide information and expand the perception as a fundamental value. They serve as impulses and idea creators for own options and creative realization. The path from inspiration to their own result goes through visualization in the form of sketches, moods, collages and exemplifies the way to their own object and product. A lecture as an exercise in seeing, perceiving, inspiring, deriving and reflecting on fashion and its interaction with art. Guests are very welcome.

Further Information: Christine Löbbers, 0541 969-4006, christine.loebbers@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Good Practice

Textile Studies performs two projects promoted as examples of good practice at the University of Osnabrück

In the winter semester of 2022/23, two textile studies teaching projects were funded with student assistants' hours as part of the UOS.DLL project. The first project involves the construction of a textile MakerSpace with analog and digital textile machines and devices for the production, repair and upcycling of clothing and textiles. With the help of a student assistant, tutorials and micro-modules introducing the equipment will be developed, among other things. The jury considered the project worthy of funding because of its potential to make teaching and learning more flexible, to make valuable use of attendance time, to promote independent learning, to develop competencies for a digitized world and to use digital tools confidently. The applicant was Prof.in Dr.in Bärbel Schmidt.

The second project is a vestimentary sustainability guide for the city of Osnabrück. Students of textile studies are developing a textile guide that offers everyday tips and knowledge about sustainability and conscious clothing consumption. The target group is residents of the city of Osnabrück and the surrounding regions. The students are supported by the assistant in the development of the guide. The focus of the project is to create more flexibility in teaching and learning and to promote independent learning. The applicants were Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt and Lesley-Ann Baldwin.

Details of all the good practice projects that help to provide inspiration and stimulus to other teachers for their own teaching can be found on the Digital Teaching Portal at the following link:

https://www.virtuos.uni-osnabrueck.de/digitale_lehre/projekt_uosdll/competition_for_help_hours_funded_projects.html

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Vortrag: SUSTAIN your ABILITY in consuming green

What influence does social media marketing have on our fashion purchasing behavior?

The Department of Textile studies cordially invites you to an exciting lecture by and with Marie Noelle Wojtun from the University of Twente/Netherlands on the topic: What influence does social media marketing have on our fashion purchasing behavior?

The growing awareness of sustainability is becoming increasingly important in our consumer society. Even though the fashion industry continues to face environmental as well as social challenges, an increasing demand of consumers for green fashion products can be seen. The power of influencers can be seen as one of the key factors leading to this behavior.

Nowadays, brands integrate influencer marketing to control the buying behavior of consumers. The different characteristics of influencers, such as perceived trustworthiness, credibility or the number of followers, play a major role in this context.

Marie Noelle Wojtun from the University of Twente in the Netherlands studied how the attitudes and staging of influencers affect the consumer behavior of young adults with regard to sustainable fashion.

The speaker will present the results of her research as part of the seminar Education for Sustainable Development in the Context of Social Media on February 8, 2023 from 10:15 - 11:45 a.m. in Room 05/217.

Text: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

Photo: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

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Hiltrud Schäfer

On January 16, 2023, our longtime colleague, textile artist Hiltrud Schäfer, passed away at the age of 85 after a lifetime of creativity. We are grateful for the memory of her contribution to contemporary textile art with countless, exciting and inspiring courses for our students, such as the exhibition "bücher sätze zeichen", which Hiltrud Schäfer created for Textile Design together with students and from which the above image is taken. An excerpt from Annette Hülsenbeck's laudation on behalf of the college:

"Dear Hiltrud, you love to create and set up exhibitions, the objects, which were created in often long working processes, come into the light, are shown, seen, commented on, inspire exchange and conversation. In the context of the professional public, a retrospective is allowed today, which indicates the importance of your contribution to the teaching of textiles. From the beginning, you have used your experiences and inventions from your own artistic workshop for university teaching, made them available to the students, generously with advice and help, with time, with attention and suggestions. You have expanded the repertoire of textile techniques, crossed the boundaries of traditional applications, found new contexts. You are always focused on the seriousness of the task and the room for maneuver in its solutions, not on the fulfillment of a program, but on finding your own expression. Your study trips have taken you to Japan and Taiwan, and you have been an artist in residence in Bolivia. With your works you were present in many national and international exhibitions, in Australia, Tunisia, Israel, Romania, in Austria and Switzerland. You have won prizes, been awarded. In terms of content, man in his vulnerability, injury, and transience plays a central role in your works; the large work for the Lausanne Biennale addressed this in a series of handmade shirts from intactness to dissolution and decay, the shirt as body. Joy in searching and finding, in collecting feed your works to artist books, to finding books of a very own kind. The Karl Valentin quote about art that is beautiful but makes a lot of work applies very much to your way of working - the results of which are not characterized by the heaviness of the work, but by the lightness of the skill."

Text: Annette Hülsenbeck

Photo: Bärbel Schmidt

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That was the year 2022 ...

The author of the book "Wiedersehen im Café am Rande der Welt" (Reunion at the Café at the Edge of the World), John Strelecky, recommends that his readers create a book of "aha! I see" experiences" that captures everyday, inspiring moments. Each "aha!" moment preserves a special energy that equips us for new adventure journeys. This is the function of the small annual review. It should ensure that we start the new year 2023 full of energy.

We have followed shining stars in 2022 full of confidence. And there is much success to report:

  • we have activated cooperations with two universities in Finland. Two exchange students report enthusiastically about their studies there
  • our homepage is translated into English in essential sections, so that international students can get a first overview of studying here
  • together with the Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden, thanks to funding from the Ministry of Science, a publication has been published, which can be viewed in print and as a blog on their homepage
  • a joint application of the TRC with other colleges from Hungary and Spain is in progress
  • Cooperations with Georgia and Portugal are under development
  • we have a wonderful secretary who is there for us and spreads good atmosphere
  • the relocation plans are progressing very well, we have the chance for improved premises and a very well placed exhibition space
  • the cooperation with Draiflessen is going great, our students support the museum education department there with explanatory videos
  • Employees are invited to lecture at other universities and institutions
  • Schools request cooperation based on their positive experiences from the practical phase and other projects
  • we are requested for training courses for teachers
  • in the summer semester, Swantje Möhlmann, who was previously a delegated lecturer in the practical phase, supports us with additional hours as a delegated teacher in university education
  • we were able to purchase equipment for modern teaching, most recently a laser cutter, thanks to a warm-hearted gift of money
  • we have built a makerspace, our stitch lab, the opening is planned for spring 2023
  • the lending boutique Fairo Moda is the talk of the town and is well received
  • our magazine Stichwort has been published again and is available as a print copy, the new issue is in the starting blocks
  • we have an interesting and above all always current homepage
  • we have shown several worth seeing exhibitions in our gallery Stichpunkt, which we are often asked about by outsiders
  • we have carried out a successful dye garden project with biology in the Botanical Garden, which will be relaunched in 2023
  • we were able to increase our supply of experienced, competent faculty to support our teaching in the areas of design, subject didactics, practice and science
  • we have once again far exceeded our target number of first-year students
  • Bachelor's and Master's students have surprised us with diverse and highly topical final theses
  • publications have been created by us

Being able to look back on this abundance is an incentive to welcome the year 2023 with enthusiasm, openness and curiosity.  

Sincerely yours

Text: Prof.in Dr.in Bärbel Schmidt

Photos: Bärbel Schmidt, Lesley-Ann Baldwin, Kevin Schmidt, Wolfgang Sparenberg und Lucia Schwalenberg

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Warmly wrapped through the winter

Knitting for beginners, advanced and professionals

Increased calls and tips & tricks for saving money have reached us in recent weeks.  The faculty of Textile Design starts a joint action "warmly packed through the winter" for students and teachers of the University of Osnabrück. Come by and knit sweaters, socks, booties, scarves, hats or other knitted items with us. It doesn't matter if you are a professional or a beginner! We support you! In the course of our activities, there is also the special opportunity to make smaller projects on our knitting machines.

Lehrende: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

Text und Foto: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

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TIES - Textiles in Europe Studies

Uni Osnabrück at textile academic meeting in the Netherlands

Under the name TIES - Textiles in Europe Studies, a group of textile researchers has come together on an international level. Representatives of the group from Hungary, Spain and the Netherlands met at a study meeting at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden. Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt from the Department of Textile Studies at the University of Osnabrück participated on behalf of Germany. The topic of the two-day informal meeting was the strengthening of textile and fashion studies. TIES plans to deepen textile archaeological studies with regard to textile production and trade. Part of the meeting was an event at the Volkenkunde Museum in Leiden with ModeMuze, a Dutch online platform for textiles, clothing and accessories from different museums.

Further Information: TRC - Textile Research Centre Leiden

Photo: Maxim Mordovin

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Workshop plant dyeing with Anne Hederer

From alpha to omega from avocado to onion skin

"Die Farben der Natur" (The colors of nature) was the title of a workshop on plant dyeing with Anne Hederer, textile designer and workshop leader at the Weißensee School of Art in Berlin. In four intensive days, students of textile studies at the University of Osnabrück experimented with plants such as walnut, mallow, coneflower or birch in different dyeing processes.

First of all, plants had to be harvested from the specially created dyeing plant bed in the Botanical Garden of the University of Osnabrück. The dyeing plant bed was the result of a fruitful intra-university cooperation with the Department of Biology. Many thanks go to Prof. Dr. Nico Dissmeyer as deputy director of the Botanical Garden and to Yvonne Bouillon as the technical director, who made it possible for the textile design to have its own bed. The dyeing plant bed was sown, nurtured and cared for by textile students from spring to summer.

 Anne Hederer expanded the harvest from the botanical garden for the workshop with a rich treasure chest full of plant dyes, from which the students drew for the experiments and test series. This resulted in deep reds from madder, delicate nudes tones from avocado, bright yellows from coneflower or birch, warm browns from walnut, and gentle tones from tagetes. Even black, the most difficult of all colorings, succeeded in the experiment.

Anne Hederer systematically introduced the students to the basics of cold and warm dyeing, bundle dying and shibori techniques with fascinating results. The series of experiments had to be recorded in dyeing diaries and measurement series.

The course was complemented by a parallel workshop on Makerculture with Lucia Schwalenberg, so that students could simultaneously dye yarns for their weaving experiments in the dyeing course.

A workshop for which the students enthusiastically wished for a continuation: Many thanks to Anne Hederer for her infectious enthusiasm.

Course management: Anne Hederer

Text and Photos: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Young Professionals

Textile Studies in young talent exhibition

Handwerksform Hannover is showing a "Young Professionals" exhibition with works by young creative people. Students of textile studies will present their work from the Beiderwand project, a cooperation with the Museumsweberei in Meldorf. With this exhibition, Handwerksform would like to show the public the versatility, innovative strength and creative power of young artists and students. New solutions in the use of materials, unusual, experimental and unconventional works from the fields of textiles, wood, ceramics, glass, jewellery, silverware and toys are represented in the exhibition as exhibits. At the same time, the exhibition will feature exhibits from the Young Collection, which was put together for the first time by the Federal Association of Arts and Crafts.

Opening: 16.09.2022, 8-10 pm by Thomas Gehre, President of the Hanover Chamber of Skilled Crafts and Dr. Sabine Wilp, Head of the Handwerksform Hanover

Exhibition duration: 17.09.-15.10.2022

Guided tours: 29.09.2022, 16.30 - 17.30 with Dipl. Des.in Lucia Schwalenberg with special focus on the works of students of textile studies at the University of Osnabrück. 13.10.2022, 16.30 - 17.30 with Dipl. Des. Rüdiger Tamm.

location: Handwerksform Hannover, Berliner Allee 17, 30175 Hannover

Opening times: Di-Fr 12-19.00, Sa 12-17.00

further Information: Prof.in Dr.in Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Dipl. Des.in Lucia Schwalenberg lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Handwerksform Hannover (left and centre), Lucia Schwalenberg (right)

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Study TalkTextil

Textile Studies: Information from students for prospective students

Study TalkTextil is an offer by students for those interested in studying Textile Studies at the University of Osnabrück. The open offer is aimed at all those interested in studying Textile Studiesduring or after their Abitur, a voluntary year or a new orientation in their studies.

The discussions with students of Textile Studies take place online via BigBlueButton and serve to deepen or prepare a study consultation.

Dates and access link via studytalktextil@uos.de

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de; general study guidance https://www.zsb-os.de/

Photos: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Scientiests for Future Osnabrück

(Fashion) Borrowing instead of buying: Presentation of the university didactic clothing rental service Fairo Moda

The university didactic clothing rental service Fairo Moda is the topic of a talk by Lesley-Ann Baldwin at Scientists for Future Osnabrück. At Fairo Moda, students and members of the University of Osnabrück can borrow women's outerwear. The principle is similar to that of a library, only with clothes instead of books. The intention of the student enterprise Fairo Moda is to shape an alternative textile consumption idea at our university.

The lecture is part of a series of events by Scientists for Future on climate change and climate protection. The aim is to make scientific findings and possible actions for a sustainable way of life accessible. In addition to technical solutions (e.g. renewable energies), the lectures will deal with legal, economic and social aspects that are essential for political implementation and the creation of structural conditions for effective climate protection.

Date: 18 May 2022

Time: 7.00 - 9.00 pm

Location:  University of Osnabrück/Building1/Lecture Hall E01, Kolpingstr. 7,, Osnabrück

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de; Lesley-Ann Baldwin lesley-ann.baldwin@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

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Table Talks

Textile students show work at Atelier Paletot Mode im Loft

Students from the Department of Textile Studies show semester work under the direction of Annette E. Schneider in the Mode im Loft studio. The textile objects were created in the winter semester in the seminar "Tischdecke - Gedeckter Tisch - Tischgespräche". The content of the seminar was the theme of togetherness and coming together at the table to eat, exchange and talk. The starting material was white, used table linen. Tools were sewing machine and sewing needle. A joint exhibition was created from the individual works.

Date: 12 June 2022

Opening time: 11.30 - 16.00 a.m.

Opening: 11.30 a.m. with introduction and tour, solidarity action in favour of the refugee aid organisation EXIL e.V. Osnabrück

Location: Paletot Mode im Loft, Martinihöfe, Martinistraße 82 – 88, 49078 Osnabrück

Admission is free. A donation for refugee aid is requested.n.

Students: Vanessa Birke, Nadine Buitkamp-Wittrock, Carlotta Gödeker, Katharina Kortlücke, Rebecca Röhrs, Elena Rohsmannek

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Annette E. Schneider

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Blue Jeans

Exhibition opens in the Museumsquartier Osnabrück

"Blue Jeans heute - Umweltsünden und die Suche nach nachhaltigen Alternativen" is the title of the theme room that textile students from the University of Osnabrück have designed for a Blue Jeans exhibition in the Museumsquartier Osnabrück. The co-curator of the exhibition, Anne Marie Juli, together with students of Textile Studies, questions the dark side of jeans production, the system of sustainability seals and sheds light on textile innovations and reuse. The students' exhibits complement the artistic and thematic examination of the topic of blue jeans.

The show includes artistic positions by Ian Berry, Hans Eijkelboom and Wang Bing, among others, as well as an oil painting from the 17th century by the artist "Der Meister der Blue Jeans", which shows a begging woman with two children in a skirt made of blue jeans fabric. Advertising posters and photographs of celebrities in blue jeans from Marilyn Monroe to Joseph Beuys to James Dean and depictions of American gold miners or cowboys extend the exhibition until 10 July 2022.

Admission for students of the university as cooperation partner of the exhibition is free..

Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday/holiday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Location: Museumsquartier Osnabrück, Lotter Straße 2, 49078 Osnabrück

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Lucia Schwalenberg

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3rd network meeting of the study and career counsellors

The Department of Textile Studies introduces itself

At the 3rd network meeting of study and career counsellors of the RD NSB and neighbouring agencies on 04 May 2022, Alexandra Wilker and Lesley-Ann Baldwin successfully presented Textile Studies as an attractive subject for prospective students.

Here is the most important information from the short lecture:

 Flyer Textile Studies

 Online guide Textile Studies

 Power Point Presentation from 04.05.2022

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de / Alexandra Wilker alexandra.wilker@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Universitätsgesellschaft Osnabrück

Funding for phd project

Under the motto "We inspire ideas", the Universitätsgesellschaft Osnabrück e. V. supports young academics and research projects by students and lecturers at the University of Osnabrück. The aim is to promote special research achievements and make them visible.

In Textile Studies, the University Society supports the phd project "The Beiderwand weaving workshop Meldorf as a textile place of remembrance". The phd project of research assistant Lucia Schwalenberg under the supervision of Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt researches the history and heritage of pattern of the museum weaving workshop in Meldorf.

Part of the workshop is a historically grown heritage of pattern with complex jacquard punch cards, historical looms, machines and devices as well as an archive of fabric drawings and samples. Beiderwand is a complex weaving technique with pictorial patterns using jacquard looms. The aim of founding the museum workshop in Meldorf was to preserve and pass on the knowledge of the complex technique of weaving. The research project focuses on the analysis of the sources at the Dithmarscher Landesmuseum Meldorf, the Museumsweberei Meldorf, the pattern archive and the technical equipment.

The purpose is to show the relevance and potential of this museum weaving workshop for the transmission of textile culture. The core is, to show whether and how textile places of remembrance contribute to the preservation, transmission and future of textile culture and textile knowledge.

Osnabrück has a strong textile-historical connection with its historical linen scale and its close proximity to the cloth-making region of Bramsche. The University has excellent technical equipment in the field of Textile Studies, including - uniquely for a subject area, that trains teachers in Germany - a historical punched card jacquard loom including a punch card machine as well as the latest technology of digital jacquard.

Many thanks to the Universitätsgesellschaft Osnabrück for the approval of the grant application for the archival research in the context of this phd project.

Further information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Dipl. journ./Dipl. des. Lucia Schwalenberg, lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de

Universitätsgesellschaft Osnabrück e. V.

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Cooperation trip to Finland

Textile Studies, Craft Education and Makerspaces

External funding from the Ministry of Science and Culture of Lower Saxony

Textile Studies, Craft Education and Makerspaces were the focus of a Textile Studies cooperation trip to Finland, involving visits to several Finnish universities and institutions. The collaborative project is funded entirely (€10,000) by the Ministry for Science and Culture of Lower Saxony under the INTENSIVinternational program to strengthen European cooperation. The project is now being continued by fleshing out cooperation and exploring opportunities for collaboration between Finnish universities, Osnabrück University (as the university in Lower Saxony) and the Textile Research Centre in Leiden, the Netherlands.

Internationalization is a key issue in Osnabrück University’s strategy process. The aim is to promote student exchange and nurture young international scholars. Research landscapes are to be established with individual countries, taking into account key research areas. In light of the university’s educational mandate and social responsibility, this is especially true for Teacher Education degree programs. The goal is to enhance the attractiveness of the location in the international higher education landscape, and to attract international students and scholars.

Osnabrück University’s Department of Textile Studies trains students to teach at primary and secondary schools (Grund-, Haupt- & Realschulen). Consequently, the department has a particular role to play in relation to sustainable education and creative skills. The Nordic countries have an understanding of creative education that goes far beyond school education in the form of “craft education”. The aim is to promote lifelong learning as an educational concept that is cross-generational, cross-cultural and interdisciplinary. Craft education finds particular expression in participatory makerspaces, as well as in university education. In Finland, international points of contact include universities in Rovaniemi, Turku/Rauma and Helsinki/Eespo.

Finland Travel Diaries: Textile Studies, Craft Education and Makerspaces

Caption: Aalto University / entrance hall; University of Helsinki: Weaving Workshop with Professor Pirita Seitamaa-Hakkarainen and Professor Sirpa Kokko; Urs Dierker explaining his circular costume design to Professor Bärbel Schmidt; Gloves / Rovaniemi Local Heritage Museum; Makerspace Völtila / Pirita Lauri with the TC2 digital Jacquard loom; handwoven woolen Ranuus (blankets) / Rovaniemi Local Heritage Museum; University of Turku / Rauma Campus / Craft Teacher Education; Jätermateraalikengät / Ana Nuutinen / Art Exhibition by staff from the University of Lapland / Arktikum Rovaniemi.

More information:

Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, +49 541 969 4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Dipl. Des. Lucia Schwalenberg, +49 541 969 4219 / +49 5103 706423, lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de

Text and photos: Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt / Dipl. Des. Lucia Schwalenberg

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Preannouncement

Annual publication on textile education for sustainable development in progress

Following on from the 2020 Annual Volume of Textile Studies, offering insights into projects from the department, the next publication is underway. The new edition focuses on conceptual reflections on textile education for sustainable development by Alexandra Wilker; the project volume on the issue of inclusion and differentiation by Christine Löbbers; and master’s theses on the core curriculum and teaching textiles at primary school by Eyleen Huil and Elena Hardenberg.

Photo: Wolfgang Sparenberg

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Textiles guidance

Information for prospective students

The aim is to train future teachers whose amazement leads them to academic discourse on the diversity of textile culture, and to the recognition that knowledge is endless and learning is lifelong.

More information about the degree programs:

  • Bildung, Erziehung, Unterricht (BEU) Bachelor
  • Lehramt Grundschule (MEd) Master of Education
  • Lehramt Haupt- und Realschule (MEd) Master of Education 

Textile Studies flyer

Textile Studies virtual tour

Contact: Textiles Office

Photo: Linen project, Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt

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Borrow don't buy

Fairo Moda opens with a click & borrow approach

Fairo Moda will open its doors on June 1, 2021. The student-to-student clothing rental service with a background in higher education didactics is located on the City Center Campus in Building 52/E03, which can be accessed opposite Seminarstraße 33, Osnabrück.

It works along the lines of a library, but with clothes rather than books. Fairo Moda seeks to act in the spirit of the sharing economy (similar to the principle of car sharing) and to provide an opportunity for shared clothing. The project was initiated in the Department of Textile Studies. Vestimentary sustainability is a topic of intense investigation in the theoretical part of the program, which now also gives Osnabrück University students and staff the opportunity to engage in practical activities in the form of a clothing rental service.

Three items of clothing may be borrowed at one time. The service is free of charge. A 60 € deposit is payable on registration, which will be refunded when leaving the system. All or part of the deposit will be retained in case of loss or damage to the borrowed items.

Owing to the current situation, a soft opening will take place on June 1, 2021. A little opening ceremony is planned for a later date. It will take place once the coronavirus situation has eased and gatherings are possible again.

Tuesdays from 14:00 to 17:00 and Thursdays from 10:00 to 13:00.

If you are interested in participating in Fairo Moda or wish to book a click & borrow appointment, please join the “Fairo Moda: hochschuldidaktischer Kleidungsverleih” study group on STUD.IP:

https://studip.uni-osnabrueck.de/dispatch.php/course/studygroup/details/60ae495965fc53d02b3bab5f0063af01

Video on the directions to Fairo Moda

More information:

Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, 0541 969-4217, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Lesley-Ann Baldwin, fairomoda@uni-osnabrueck.de, lebaldwin@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos und text: Lesley-Ann Baldwin

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Cooperation with the Draiflessen Collection

Haute Couture. 4 designers – 4 costumes – 4 teams of students

The Department of Textile Studies is set to cooperate with the Draiflessen Collection art museum in Mettingen for the first time, in summer semester 2021.

The Draiflessen´s Collection fashion collection includes creations of famous designers such as Madeleine Vionnet, Christian Dior, Madame Grès and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Sharing ideas with a tailoring expert, a textile conservator and a fashion historian, four teams of students will each analyze a dress or an ensemble by Vionnet, Dior, Grès or Balenciaga, paying particular attention to the tailoring technique, and placing it in the context of the fashion designer’s oeuvre. Complementing the presentation in the Draiflessen Collection, students emulate the creations and translate them into a contemporary setting.

The results of the cooperation can be viewed in a presentation at the Draiflessen Collection in Mettingen from July 18 to October 31, 2021.

The project led by Dr. Maria Spitz, Draiflessen Collection, and Christine Löbbers, Textile Studies.

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Postcards and flyer

Information materials for prospective students

The Department of Textile Studies has created a series of postcards for prospective students.
Another recent addition is the new Textile Studies flyer.

Textile Studies postcards

Textile Studies flyer

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Heritage of Patterns

Digital Weaving Norway reports about a collaborative project with the Stiftung Mensch foundation

"German textile designer and weaver Lucia Schwalenberg was recently a part of the Beiderwand-Weaving Workshop where the participants explored the historic weave pattern. The workshop took place at the 'Stiftung Mensch' (Foundation Man), which is located in the authentic building-complex 'Altes Pastorat' in Meldorf, Schleswig-Holstein (Germany).

Lucia Schwalenberg, who was the project coordinator for this Workshop, has already headed similar projects at the Tuchmacher Museum Bramsche (Fabric Maker Museum in Bramsche) and at the Textile department at the University of Osnabrück. Below, she shares details about the Workshop ...

The Meldorf Beiderwand-Weaving Workshop is a cultural landmark which was founded 100 years ago as a part of "Dithmarscher Landesmuseum". Part of the Workshop heritage is their large number of jacquard patterns stored on punched cards, as well as their historic mechanical jacquard looms, their ancien weaving accessories and tools as well as an archive of drawings and woven samples. The workshop is operated by people with disabilities.

The foundation 'Stiftung Mensch' has made a complete inventory of their patterns, and relaunched the collection in order to prexerve the cultural treasure. They made technical descriptions and also carried out a systematical re-structuring of the workshop. The aim was to highlight the very special Beiderwand-patterns of the region

The pieces in the Beiderwand-collection of the Meldorf Museum Workshop have interesting names, such as Small and Big Tree of Life, Bernward, Phyramus and Thysbe, Bent Tulip, Small Tulip, Big Tulip, Unicorn, Hertzhorn, Bird pattern, Fishing Harbour, Small Sailing Boats, Gaushorn, Gotland, Deer, The Four Continents, Madonna and Jutland.

There are precious Beiderwand pieces originating from Meldorf in the following collections: The German National Museum in Nürnberg, the Schleswig-Holstein County Museum an Schloß Gottorf as well as in the Museums in Flensburg and Hamburg. In the 17th and 18th century Beiderwand-weavings became very popular, especially in Schleswig-Holstein, which is located in the nortern part of Germany/southern part of mainland Denmark/Jutland.

The patterns originate from 13th and 14th century damask patterns. Beiderwand-weavings were especially popular in farmhouse living rooms, where they were used as curtains as well as bed-covers on 'built-in'beds, the so-called 'Alcoves'. Typical materials in Beiderwand weavings is a linen yarn in the ground weft sytem an in both warp systems, ground warp and binding warp, and a coarse wool in the pattern weft. The weave structure is a type of double weave, with areas that are connected and areas that form pockets.

The warp ratio is mostly 4:1 between ground warp and binding warp. The fabric surfaces show a high-contrast positive-negative image. The name Beiderwand (=two sides) may refer to the two distinctly different fabric surfaces resulting from the double-weave structure and the two materials. In the Germanic linguistic region, the root word -wand exists in other German words such as Leinwand, which means plain weave/tabby and Gewand, which means garment/robe. The origin of weaving stems from braiding, such as in Gewunden, meaning entwined of braided, such as walls braided from willows.

The patterns are either geometric, which means that they can be woven on few to many shafts, or ornamental/figurative, which means that they have to be woven on multishaft damast looms of jacquard-looms.

After having registered the traditional patterns, part two of the project was dedicated to the cooperation with the Textile Department of University Osnabrück: Guided by their university teacher Lucia Schwalenberg, the students started to develop timeless geometric Beiderwand designs. They were either contrasting black-and-white or with bright colour shades. They were woven with organic, natural tweed-yarns from Ireland, reminding of the originally handspun and hand-dyed yarns used in the historic textiles.

These new designs are right now in the process of being woven on the TC2 loom at the Textiles Department in Osnabrück. A small selection on the students' patterns shall then be transferred to punched cards for the jacquard looms at the Beiderwand-Workshop Meldof, so that the Workshop my add contemporary designs to their historic pattern treasure.

The transfer of files to jacquard hard cards became possible because oof the fortunate situation that workshop-leaderr Wolfgang Sternberg managed to retore both the card punching machine and the punched card sewing maching which were sitting in the Beiderwand-workshop Meldorf.

An exhibition with historic and contemporary Beiderwand-patterns is int he plannig for spring 2021 in teh Landesmuseum Dithmarschen in Meldorf. This unique project elegantly combines the great possibilities of the digital jacquard-loom TC2 and the historic, punched card jacquard technology preserved at Beiderwandweberei Meldorf.

About Lucia ...

After studying Journalism (LMU München, Germany) and Textile Design (Hochschule Hannover, Germany), Lucia completed the Shuttle Course at Kunsthochschule Linz/Textiles Zentrum Haslach, Austria. She works as a textile designer and weaving lexturer at Kunsthochschule Kassel and University Osnabrück. In University Osnabrück she is a research staff member at the Textiles Department. She is currently working on her doctoral dissertation about 'Genius loci - textile places of commemoration'.

Hints to Beiderwand-sources are welcome to lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de"

text: Digital Weaving Norway/Geetika Nautiyal

https://www.digitalweaving.no/heritage-of-patterns-beiderwand-weaving-workshop/

Photos: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Virtual tour for prospective students

Virtual tour of Textile Studies

Textile Studies virtual tour

Photo: Lucia Schwalenberg

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12th Osnabrück Science Forum

Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt: “Green Button. Is the ecological label just window dressing?

The university and Neue Osnabrücker Zeitung hosted an evening full of questions and answers at the 12th Osnabrück Science Forum in the sold-out Schlossaula on November 15th, 2019, in keeping with the theme of “Future. Questions. Answers.”

33 professors went on stage to give their scientific opinion on questions concerning the future that citizens of Osnabrück had asked. On stage, Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt answered the question asked by a reader concerning the Green Button: Is the ecological label just window dressing?

Presentation: Professor Dr. Susanne Menzel-Riedl, President of Osnabrück University and Ralf Geisenhanslüke, Editor-in-Chief of NOZ

Video: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt talking about the Green Button

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The academic scarf of the University Osnabrück

Designed by Textile Studies students – now available at the Unishop

A symbol of academic achievement and close ties to Osnabrück University: the academic scarf combines university creativity and craftsmanship to produce a masterpiece. The scarf, woven from silk and cotton, was developed by Textile Studies students and produced locally on a Jacquard loom. The scarf was presented for the first time to doctoral and post-doctoral graduates of Osnabrück University at the 2019 doctoral graduation ceremony. The scarf is now available at the Unishop.

The students researched the background of academic clothing and explored symbols and design elements of the university and the city of Osnabrück. They drafted models, which were then refined in the digital image processing program, covered with fabric weaves and woven on the digital Jacquard loom. After presenting the results to the President’s Cabinet and the Communication department, a collaborative design emerged. The final design shows the university’s logo moving across the scarf, echoing the way that students successfully pass through the university. The silhouette of Osnabrück and the castle with the lettering “UOS” symbolizes the central location of the university. In the middle, the city’s Wheel of Peace joins with a lily, symbolizing wisdom and knowledge, as well as the castle garden – a central meeting place for students.

Students:
Sümeyye Asci, Pauline Becking, Julia Falke, Amelie Gieschler, Merve Kocaoglu, Lara Munsch, Naina Josefina Reuter, Julia Schaller, Rieke Scholle, Nesibe Türkaslan, Derya Tuztas.

Participating lecturers: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, Dipl. Des. Lucia Schwalenberg.

Photos: Ralf Orlowski (left above), Lucia Schwalenberg 

The academic scarf of University Osnabrück

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WFaOG1asos&feature=youtu.be

https://www.uni-osnabrueck.de/veranstaltungen/zentrale-veranstaltungen/promotionsfeier/

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Aus alt mach neu! Lesley-Ann Baldwin und Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt (v. l.) im Kleiderarchiv des Faches Textiles Gestalten.

Fairo Moda helps combat mass consumption

Textile student develops concept for a sustainable fashion industry

Never before have we owned so many items of clothing. Germans buy up to 60 new garments on average each year. Is it really necessary? This was the question that Lesley-Ann Baldwin, Textile Studies student at Osnabrück University, also asked herself. In response to this question, she developed a student-run company that she hopes will make a sustainable improvement to the fashion industry.

In the future, students should be able to borrow and swap clothes instead of throwing them away. But that is not all – Baldwin also plans to offer a module in her institute linked to the rental service to combining practice with teaching.

She says that the current fashion industry is one of the most environmentally damaging industries in the world. Resources are wasted through overproduction and short-lived trends. Nature is contaminated and polluted by pesticides, Baldwin states. “Society is aware of the serious problems in the textile industry, but they are not sufficiently addressed,” she criticized. The Fairo Moda rental service and the Sustainability Management module she plans for the Textile Studies are intended to raise awareness of these conditions. The aim is to locally encourage sustainable consumption behavior among students.

Baldwin has developed a detailed concept for Fairo Moda. Students will be able to borrow items for everyday wear and for special occasions from a central rental location on campus, and swap them during open hours: “The principle resembles that of a library – but with clothes rather than books.” Research assistants and students are to manage the operations of the Fairo Moda rental service, as well as activities in the areas of visual marketing and event planning. Donations of clothing are to be requested and secondhand items are to be purchased for the rental service. Baldwin is also keen to cooperate with sustainably producing local young designers. 

The envisaged Sustainability Management module aims to link Fairo Moda to university teaching. Professor Bärbel Schmidt accompanied and supported Baldwin in her work: “Interdisciplinary intersections evolve between practice and teaching. Seminars from the fields of business, biology or geography could also be integrated.” The module description could be incorporated in over 30 subjects – not only in teaching, but also in the area of professional skills development for the Dual Major Bachelor’s Degree. Seminars will engage students with ecological and economic issues as well as the fashion industry. Students could put their ideas into practice at Fairo Moda, or outside the university. “Our aim is to primarily help shape teaching theory,” Baldwin explained. “Future teachers should share their knowledge with the outside world and raise awareness among the younger generation for the issue of a fair, sustainable industry.” Schmidt supplemented: “We must take responsibility and think specifically about how we want to leave our planet to future generations.”

Photo: Elena Scholz
Text:
Marie Thiele

Informationen:
Prof. Dr. phil. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de
Lesley-Ann Baldwin, ebaldwin@uni-osnabrueck.de

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