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Stichpunkt

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TEXTILE CHAIN study results

New exhibition in the gallery "Stichpunkt" of textile studies

In the seminars on the textile chain, students of textile studies in the summer semester of 2022 dealt with the second part of the textile chain, which deals with the finishing of textile surfaces up to the product or up to disposal or recycling.

In the courses, the second semester students studied the theoretical and practical basics of dyeing, marbling, printing, embroidery, sewing, patchwork and recycling.

In the practical part, students designed a floral element to a matching summer dress using a previously learned technique. In addition, a top was designed and realized using the acquired skills.

The results will be shown in an exhibition at the Stichpunkt Gallery of the Department of Textile Studies from August to September 2022 at Seminarstraße 33 in Osnabrück.

Further Information: Universität Osnabrück/Fachgebiet Textiles Gestalten, Dipl. Ing. f. Bekleidungstechnik, Christine Löbbers, 0541-969-4006, christine.loebbers@uos.de

Exhibition realization: Anja Leshoff, Christine Löbbers

Photos/Text: Christine Löbbers

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Hohe Schneiderkunst

HOHE SCHNEIDERKUNST

New exhibition in the Stitch Gallery of Textile Studies

The exhibition "HOHE SCHNEIDERKUNST" in the Stichpunkt Gallery shows the cooperation between the Department of Textile Studies at the University of Osnabrück and the Draiflessen Collection Mettingen.

In two seminars in the summer semester 2021, students with different starting points worked on the topic: the high art of tailoring.

In the seminar "Vom schrägen Fadenlauf zum klassischen Tailleur", supervised by Christine Löbbers, textile students were inspired by great couturières such as Madame Grès, Madeleine Vionnet, Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga. They produced their own impressive designs after detailed research. They experimented, imitated techniques and tested craftsmanship on their garments. These were shown in an exhibition in the forum of the Draiflessen Collection Mettingen alongside the designers' originals. The concept of the exhibition was developed in the second seminar "Hohe Schneiderkunst - 4 Modeschöpfer*innen - 4 Kleider - 4 x 4 Studierende" under museum pedagogical aspects by Dr. Maria Spitz.

Four of the garments created in the seminar are currently on display in the large gallery, further models will be shown in the course of the exhibition. The small gallery provides an insight into the working methods of the high art of tailoring.

More impressions of the exhibition in the Draiflessen Collection on the homepage of the Department of Textile Studies: https://www.textil.uni-osnabrueck.de/en/about/news.html

Text and Photo: Anja Leshoff

Exhibition venue: Schaufenstergalerie Stichpunkt, Seminarstr. 33-34, 49074 Osnabrück

Exhibition period: 21.01. - 31.03.2022

Further Information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

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Erzählstoff

New exhibition with audio guide at the Stichpunkt display gallery

Erzählstoff (Narrative material) is the title of an exhibition at the Stichpunkt display gallery for Textile Studies, located on the Seminarstraße in Osnabrück. Textile students present their findings from a seminar on object research, which was held in winter semester 2020/21, inspired by a cooperative venture with the Textile Research Centre Leiden in the Netherlands. The seminar was led by Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt. 

During the seminar, students examined the textiles using Jules David Prown’s Mind in Matter method. The method offers a toolbox for the scientific study of things such as textiles. The aim of the study is to discover the stories that these silent items of clothing can tell. 

As part of the seminar, each of the ten students analyzed a garment of their choice from the department’s textile archive. The students showcase the garments they examined and the results of their analysis in the exhibition. 

An audio tour of the exhibition can be accessed via a QR code in the gallery window. The audio tour guides viewers through the exhibition and provides further information on the Prown method. The individual stages of analysis are explained with reference to the exhibited garments.

Photos: Anja Leshoff

Exhibition venue: Stichpunkt display gallery, Seminarstr. 33-34, 49074 Osnabrück

Exhibition dates: August 12 – October 15, 2021

Further information: Professor Dr. phil. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

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Heritage of patterns

Textiles students develop woven patterns for the historic Beiderwand Weaving Workshop Meldorf

The students acquired an approach to the technique of Beiderwand weaving. They shed light on the origin, use, development, materials and significance of this historic weaving technique. Building on this knowledge, the students implemented their designs in an individual and collective design process. This process started with hand-drawn sketches, which were processed using the image processing program and registered, and culminated in a woven sample produced using the department’s TC2 digital hand Jacquard loom. 

The following students were involved in the project: Canan Barcin, Jessica Kirschmann, Annika Klinkig, Anja Leshoff, Rieke Ohlsen, Sophia Schlimm, Heidrun Schneider, Zeynep Yaman and Beyza Yilmaz. The seminar was led by Lucia Schwalenberg, textile designer and research assistant at the Department of Textile Studies.

Further information: Osnabrück University / Department of Textile Studies, Dipl. Journ./Dipl. Des. Lucia Schwalenberg: +49 541 969 4219 or +49 5103 706424, lucia.schwalenberg@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos/text: Lucia Schwalenberg

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Street art becomes clothes art

New exhibition at the Department of Textile Studies Stichpunkt gallery

Does street art painting need a cold wall or can the effect also be achieved on a base that is in many ways the opposite of stone and concrete? What might it look like? What techniques can be used artistically to achieve a similar image language? What is the intention behind the picture? Does this intention remain unchanged following the transformation? These were the questions addressed by textiles student Anja Leshoff in her project in theory and practice in winter semester 2020/21. 

In her examination performance, she investigated whether visual aspects of street art painting can be transferred to a textile garment using an adapted technique without losing the desired effect and message. The artist’s underlying intention was to be retained to see whether a textile medium, which is strongly juxtaposed to the usual image carrier of street art painting, can also be a “carrier” of street art. 

After exploring various facets of street art painting and the Greek artist Alexandros Vasmoulakis, Anja Leshoff initially created her own mural (house wall), which was then translated onto an item of clothing (a coat) using textile techniques. The visual means were to be used and adapted to the new material without losing their emphasis. The aim was to determine whether both “image carriers” (wall and coat) have the same effect, or whether street art painting only works on walls.

Exhibition venue: Osnabrück University / Textile Studies, Stichpunkt gallery, Seminarstr. 33-34, 49074 Osnabrück

Further Information: Textile Studies, Professor Dr. phil. Bärbel Schmidt, +49 541 969 4217,  baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

Photos: Anja Leshoff

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Mind in Matter

New exhibition at the Department of Textile Studies Stichpunkt gallery

The new exhibition entitled “Mind in Matter”, created at the Department of Textile Studies, offers insights into digital teaching and the department’s own textile archive at its Stichpunkt gallery located at Seminarstraße 33 in Osnabrück. The exhibition and the brochure entitled “Ein Textilarchiv als Datenpool der Kulturgeschichte. Description – Deduction – Speculation” (A textile archive as a data pool of cultural history. Description – deduction – speculation), which was created in parallel, are the outcomes of a seminar on “Historic Textiles as Sources of Memory”, led by Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt.

Photos: Wolfgang Sparenberg (photo of coat), Pauline Becking (photo of measuring tape)

Exhibition venue: Textile Studies, Stichpunkt gallery, Seminarstr. 33-34, 49074 Osnabrück

Further information: Textile Studies, Professor Dr. phil. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de

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Sewing textile masks

Exhibition at the Stichpunkt gallery

There is currently a lack of masks not only in Germany, but throughout the world. Since no one can rule out being infected and passing on the virus without experiencing symptoms, more and more doctors are recommending that people wear a simple homemade mask. Although homemade masks, ideally made of cotton, do not protect the wearer from contracting the Coronavirus, they may be useful in containing the virus, according to the President of the German Medical Association. Droplets generated by talking, coughing or sneezing can be trapped by the mask, even if it is made of fabric.

The Department of Textile Studies responds to this need for homemade masks with its new exhibition at the Stichpunkt gallery, Seminarstr. 33-34. A phase model for the production of a mouth and nose covering is exhibited, with additional information rounding off the topic. The department points out that when making masks, it is important to ensure that it contains wire (or a similar material) so that the mask can be placed around the nose. In addition, it is essential to choose a fabric that can be washed at 90°C after daily use. Requirements that are met by fabrics made of cotton.

Text, photos and further information: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt, baerbel.schmidt@uni-osnabrueck.de.

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Traditional textile crafts

World Cultural Heritage – Indigo Blue-Dyeing and Stipwerk: exhibition at the “Stichpunkt!” gallery

It is thanks to the commitment of indigo dyer Georg Stark from Jena that indigo blue-dyeing was included in the Nationwide Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage for Germany on November 28, 2018. In spring 2018, Georg Stark managed to raise funds for a cooperative touring exhibition on indigo dyeing and the Dutch stipwerk, which is listed on the Dutch World Heritage List. Works on this topic by textiles students from Osnabrück University are now being showcased at the “Stichpunkt!” gallery, located at Seminarstraße 33 in Osnabrück. 

The display will be on show until the end of April. In mid-2018, the indigo dyer approached Osnabrück University’s Textile Studies department and suggested creating exhibits for a young audience. The department immediately took up the idea. Led by Professor Dr. Bärbel Schmidt and research assistant Christine Löbbers, students explored both historical craft techniques in the seminar on “World Cultural Heritage: Indigo Blue-Dyeing and Stipwerk” in winter semester 2018/19. The focus was on how these two techniques can be embedded in the public’s consciousness, and which products can help to bring both techniques back into our everyday life. 

A visit to Stark’s workshop in Jever served as an introduction. With great passion and commitment, the craftsman discussed both methods with the students. After this inspiring journey into the worlds of indigo dyeing and stipwerk, the textiles students threw themselves into the planning and implementation work with ever new ideas. Despite the urgency – the objects were to be exhibited at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden in November 2018 – there was no end to the students’ creative urge.

So it is no (blue) wonder that numerous modern garments and works were created from the indigo dyed fabrics produced especially by the indigo dyer to suit the students’ ideas. The Dutchman also provided the students with a bundle of stipwerk fabrics. Well aware of the value of the fabrics, the students developed ideas for objects, even for the tiniest pieces of fabric, making virtually complete use of the valuable textiles and using the zero-waste method to ensure sustainability. 

Following presentations at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden and the indigo dyeing workshop in Jever, the students’ creations will be on display together with works by the fabric dyer at the “Stichpunkt!” gallery until the end of April 2019. In April, Georg Stark will deliver a lecture on insights into the world of indigo blue-dyeing. Julia Falke, Gesche Hillmann, Marie-Theres Kempermann, Ann-Kathrin Leimkuhle, Caroline Polaczyk, Naina Reuter and Julia Schaller contributed to the exhibition.

Photo: Prof. Dr. Bärbel Schmidt

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